Friday, March 18, 2011

Small Bites capsule restaurant reviews for March 18 and beyond

By Plain Dealer staff

The capsule reviews are based on full reviews by Plain Dealer restaurant critics. We also include capsules of older reviews of some of the region's more prominent eateries. The critics make at least two anonymous visits to each restaurant and do not accept complimentary meals. The writers include Plain Dealer food and restaurants editor Joe Crea (JC); Plain Dealer reporters Tony Brown (TB) and Debbi Snook (DS); freelance writers David Farkas (DF), Bob Migra (BM) and Beth Segal (BS); and former reporter Wilma Salisbury (WS). Opinions reflect the restaurant's performance at the time of the original review; Changes in quality can occur because of menu and/or personnel changes and more. Dollar signs ($) reflect price, with $ being the least expensive and $$$$ being the most.

1890 at The Arcade. Hyatt Regency Cleveland, 420 Superior Ave. 216-575-1234; cleveland.hyatt.com (DF) Dining-room features a range of comforting, familiar dishes, including pierogi, chicken and steaks. Bar menu includes burgers, sandwiches and pasta. Open for breakfast. $$-$$$$

Barley House. 1261 West Sixth St. 216-623-1700; barleyhousecleveland.com (BS) A drinking establishment with a dining menu as large and multicultural as the spirits. Lunch is one of the great bargains of the Warehouse District, with options such as a "Bottomless" Soup and Salad for $6.99; or the Mix 'n' Match of a half-sandwich with soup or salad for $5.99. $$

Blue Point Grille. 700 W. St. Clair Ave. 216-875-7827; hospitalityrestaurants.com (JC) Few places in town so consistently provide fine seafood, good service and sense of event in a polished space. $$$$

Bo Loong. 3922 St. Clair Ave. 216-391-3113. Dim sum is served 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily and is a dining experience you owe yourself, friends. $$

Bob Golic's Sports Bar & Grille. 1213 West Sixth St. 216-363-1130; bobgolics.com (BM) The former Browns defensive lineman has filled a niche among the chic, expensive spots on the bluff above the Flats. The aim at Golic's is to provide a fun, casual and affordable spot to catch a game while serving food that's a cut above the usual sports bar fare. $$

Brasa Grill. 1300 West Ninth St. 216-575-0699; brasagrillsteakhouse.com (DS) Find a special occasion to indulge in this glamorous spot offering an all-you-can-eat roasted-meat feast, Brazilian-style. If you have a good appetite, the fixed price won't hurt as much. $$$$

Bricco. 1438 Euclid Ave. 216-862-2889; briccodowntown.com (DS) Dinner and a show. What sounds like a simple concept has long dogged PlayhouseSquare, until Bricco brought the kind of full-service splash that befits a date with a touring Broadway company. The staff will work its tails off to get you to the show on time. $$-$$$

Chinato. 2077 East Fourth St. 216-298-9080; chinatocleveland.com (DS) One of Cleveland's top chefs turns to Italy in his fourth local restaurant, Chinato. Zack Bruell traverses the Mediterranean country with great success at this gem on the south side of the culinary explosion on downtown's East Fourth Street. Visually, it's a transporting dining room, with a golden-hour panoramic view of Florence. Don't miss the chicken saltimbocca and the seafood fritto misto. The Italian wine list is so big, it's listed by region. $$$-$$$$

Clevelander Bar & Grill. 834 Huron Road. 216-771-3723; clevelanderbar.com. The unpretentious sports bar in the Gateway District serves basic pub grub for lunch daily. Best bets are quesadillas, wings and fries -- appetizers large enough to share. Quick service. $

Cleveland Chop House & Brewery. 824 W. St. Clair Ave. 216-623-0909; chophouse.com Historic Warehouse District building, part of a Colorado-based chain specializing in handcrafted beer brewed on the premises and large portions of steaks, chops, chicken and seafood. Generally good quality; some dishes are overdressed. $$$

Crop Bistro & Bar. 1400 West Sixth St. 216-696-2767; cropbistro.com (DF) Steve Schimoler's "laboratory" kitchen makes this a must for anyone who loves daring and (mostly) delicious food. Standouts include Tasmanian salmon, citrus-infused chicken and corn and crab latte. Tempting wine list. $$$

D'Vine Wine Bar. 836 W. St. Clair Ave. 216-241-8463; dvinewinebar.com (DF) D'Vine's small-plate orientation keeps prices in check and tests a kitchen's ability to deliver a few ingredients in a pleasingly delicious way. $$

Flannery's Pub. 323 E. Prospect Ave. 216-781-7782; flannerys.com (DF) Friendly service, Guinness and Irish whiskey are main attractions of this Irish-themed bar and eatery. The food sometimes rises to the same level, particularly burgers and fish & chips. $$

Flat Iron Cafe. 1114 Center St. 216-281-6500; flatironcafe.com (BM) Cleveland's oldest Irish pub (established 1910) serves up big portions of hearty grub at reasonable prices. Don't miss the Lake Erie perch, a Flat Iron tradition for nearly a century. $$

Gillespie's Map Room. 1281 West Ninth St. 216-621-7747; maproomcleveland.com (DF) This memorabilia-stuffed bar (including an airplane) specializes in pizza with a soft, chewy crust. Good bets include New Jersey Style and Vegetarian Supreme. $

Greenhouse Tavern. 2038 East Fourth St. 216-393-4302; thegreenhousetavern.com (DS) There is a French flair in the techniques here, but there are daring new takes on older ideas, plus the freshness and deep flavors of many local ingredients plucked from Cuyahoga Valley farms. $$-$$$

Ha Ahn. Golden Plaza, 3030 Superior Ave., #108. 216-664-1152. (BS) This tiny (seven-table) restaurant may be lacking in decor, but it more than makes up for it with a good variety of very decent Korean dishes and a charming attitude. $$

House of Blues. 308 Euclid Ave. (restaurant entrance on East Fourth Street). 216-523-2583; houseofblues.com/cleveland (BS) When it's good, HOB's slightly Southern-accented sandwiches, "Blues Burgers" and entrees can be soulfully delicious. But when the kitchen is "off," you take your chances. That inconsistency is balanced by a fascinating folk art-filled theme restaurant attached to the House of Blues concert venue.

Hyde Park Prime Steakhouse. 123 W. Prospect Ave. 216-344-2444; hydeparkrestaurants.com. Steakhouse near Progressive Field and The Q serving prime dry-aged beef. Boutique wines, seafood appetizers and luscious desserts. $$$

John Q's Steakhouse. 55 Public Square. 216-861-0900; johnqssteakhouse.com (BM) Combines a classic American steakhouse menu with sports bar decor on the north side of Public Square. $$$-$$$$

Johnny's Downtown. 1406 West Sixth St. 216-623-0055; johnnyscleveland.com (DS) The dining is still elegant at this offshoot of Johnny's Bar, serving Northern Italian and New American cuisine. Dinner is pricey but lunch is moderately priced. $$-$$$$

La Strada. 2050 East Fourth St. 216-861-3663; lastradacleveland.com (DF) A multilevel dining room, a movie flickering on the wall and a Mediterranean-influenced menu make La Strada one of the more unusual restaurants in downtown Cleveland. $$-$$$.

Lola Bistro. 2058 East Fourth St. 216-621-5652; lolabistro.com (DS) Fish, poultry, red or white meat – Lola was a master of flesh on every dish we tried. It's hard to say enough about the pleasing textures of each, the many flavors that seemed new. The place can be horridly noisy when crowded, and there are occasional missteps. $$$

Metro Bar and Kitchen. 1352 West Sixth St. 216-241-1300; metrobarandkitchen.com (DF) A modern, relaxed watering hole and restaurant with a menu of upscale comfort foods, including steaks and chops. Salmon with mashed potatoes is outstanding. Large selection of craft beers on tap and in bottles. $$-$$$

Morton's the Steakhouse. Tower City Center, 1600 West Second St. 216-621-6200; mortons.com (JC) Don't plan intimate conversation in this boisterous beef palace featuring prime beef high-price American wines. The quality generally merits the big price tag. $$$$

Muse. Ritz-Carlton Cleveland, 1515 West Third St. 216-623-1300; ritzcarlton.com (DF) High-quality ingredients, a quiet, comfortable dining room and polite employees who approach if you so much as raise an eyebrow in their direction. $$$

No. 1 Pho. 3120 Superior Ave. 216-781-1176. (DS) Step into this snazzy Vietnamese restaurant after work or before a show for sparkling Asian meals under $10. $$

Pickwick & Frolic. 2035 East Fourth St. 216-241-7425; pickwickandfrolic.com. A delightful getaway from the daily grind, this entertainment complex features rustic fare with style, a martini bar, cabaret and comedy club. Reasonably good brunches. $$-$$$

Porcelli's Bistro. 1852 East Sixth St. 216-574-2270; porcellisbistro.com Popular downtown lunch spot serving delicious pasta, hearty sandwiches, fresh salads and a daily homemade dessert. Quick service for a mostly white-collar crowd. $$

RJ Boland's Restaurant and American Saloon. 724 Prospect Ave. 216-938-8947; rjbolands.com (DS) RJ Boland's lives up to its own description as an upscale sports bar with steak, salmon and spaghetti and meatballs. $$

Saigon Restaurant & Bar. 2061 East Fourth St. 216-344-2020; saigoncleveland.com (BS) With its pools of red and orange light drenching the center columns and booths with color, a dramatic setting for some fine Vietnamese food. Some dishes fell somewhere below the truly delicious mark but deserve mention. $$

Sans Souci. Renaissance Cleveland Hotel, 24 Public Square. 216-696-5600; sanssoucicleveland.com (DF) Fine dining in a Provencal-styled room with great views of Public Square and attentive service. Eclectic menu features French-Mediterranean touches among mainly seafood and beef offerings, sometimes disappointing. French-oriented wine list. $$$

Sapporo Sushi. 1940 East Sixth St. (around the corner from the Arcade). 216-579-7000. (DS) A pleasant little storefront with lunches and early dinners. Try the Crunch Munch roll and the salmon teriyaki. $$$

Shooters on the Water. 1148 Main Ave. 216-861-6900; shootersflats.com (DF) Stir together a warm night, crowded deck, hard bodies, six bars and --voila! -- Party Central. The formula that has worked for 20 years staked its reputation on fun rather than food. Surprisingly, the food is something to talk about, too. $$

Superior Pho. 3030 Superior Ave E. (use rear entrance off East 31st Street). 216-781-7462; superiorpho.com (DS) One of Cleveland's top Vietnamese restaurants makes a great and economical downtown lunch place or stop before a show. Try pho, vermicelli, and the shredded chicken and cabbage salad. $

Sushi Rock. 1276 West Sixth St. 216-623-1212; sushirockohio.com (DS) It's loud, expensive and makes a lot of young professionals happy. Half-price sushi night (5 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays), some spectacular salmon and lamb chops make more people happy. $$$

Tastebuds. 1400 East 30th St. 216-344-1770; tastebudsrestaurant.com. Vegetarian-friendly cafeteria in an old warehouse that is now the home of artists' galleries and live/work spaces. At lunch, healthful soups, salads, wraps, daily specials. Breakfast available. $

Vincenza's Pizza and Pasta. 603 Prospect Ave. 216-241-8382. (DS) Those who whine that they can't find good pizza in Cleveland have not been paying attention. Vincenza's has been here since 1979. Deep dish and New York-style pizza, plus pasta, calzones, fresh cannoli. $-$$

XO Prime Steaks. 500 West St. Clair Ave. 216-861-1919; xoprimesteaks.com (DS) Vigorously priced, but the steak is special. Expertly cooked lobster, and evening shrimp cocktail is so big it could make a dinner with a salad or side dish. The punctual, polite service is often aloof. $$$$

Zinc Bistro, Bar, Bakery. 668 Euclid Ave. 216-583-9462; zinccleveland.com (DF) If you believe that the stereotypical Gallic restaurant must offer onion soup gratinee, escargot, moules frites , and cassoulet, welcome to Zinc. Menu offers some high points, hewing to tradition, but the occasional misstep can disappoint. Mustard-tinged walls, antique posters and ceiling fans sustain an impression of a belle epoque cafe. $$$

Zocalo Mexican Grill & Tequileria. 2071 East Fourth St. 216-781-0420; zocalocleveland.com (DF) The menu embraces "unique ingredients and spices" that are indigenous to three culinary regions of Mexico (Puebla, Veracruz and the Yucatan). As a result, big, authentic flavors came loping through in several memorable dishes. $$

Source: http://blog.cleveland.com

No comments:

Post a Comment